Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles

Crossing-the-bridge noodles (guòqiáo mǐxiàn) are Yunnan's signature dish, named by a legend set in the Qing dynasty: a scholar's wife noticed that the broth she carried to her island-studying husband in a covered pot stayed hotter than expected thanks to the layer of oil floating on its surface sealing in the heat as she crossed the bridge. Whether or not the story is accurate, the technique it describes is the dish's defining feature.

The preparation: a large clay or ceramic bowl of boiling-hot chicken broth, heated to near-maximum temperature and topped with a thin layer of oil to retain heat, arrives at the table before the toppings. The toppings are arranged on separate side plates: thin-sliced raw pork, chicken, fish, ham and quail egg; fresh mushrooms, leafy greens, tofu skin and bean sprouts; and the rice noodles themselves (round and firm, not the thin vermicelli variety). The diner adds the raw meats first, then the vegetables, then the noodles — the broth's stored heat cooks them sequentially in the bowl.

The original is from Mengzi in southern Yunnan, though Kunming has become the city most associated with it nationally. Regional variations differ in broth richness, in which toppings are included, and in the type of rice noodle used. The premium Mengzi version uses an elaborate set of seasonal toppings; the everyday Kunming version is more modest.

A dish of fresh chilli sauce and black vinegar is standard on the side.