Jiangnan · dumpling
Xiaolongbao (Soup Dumplings)
小笼包 · Xiǎolóngbāo
Steamed dumplings with a thin wheat wrapper and a hot pork-and-broth filling. Eaten in a single bite.
Xiaolongbao originated in Nanxiang, now a district of Shanghai, in the 1870s under dim-sum cook Huang Mingxian, who is credited with developing the soup-filled variant from existing stuffed-bun traditions. The name refers to the small bamboo steamers (xiao long) in which they are cooked and served.
The wrapper is a thin wheat dough, more delicate than the thicker skins used for northern-style jiaozi. The filling is minced pork mixed with a cube of solid pork-skin gelatin (aspic, set from simmered pork rind and collagen); during steaming, the aspic melts into hot liquid broth around the pork filling. A skilled wrapper applies 18 or more pleats at the top to seal the dumpling and contain the liquid.
Eating technique: use chopsticks to lift the dumpling by its pleated top (the xiao long bao is fragile — puncture it and you lose the soup). Transfer to a soup spoon. Bite or pierce a small hole in the side of the wrapper and sip the hot broth first, then eat the rest. Black rice vinegar with shredded fresh ginger threads is the standard condiment — the acidity cuts through the pork fat.
Significant variations include crab-and-pork (xie fen xiaolongbao), popular in autumn during hairy-crab season in Shanghai. The Suzhou version claims a separate origin and uses a somewhat different dough. Din Tai Fung, the Taiwanese chain now with Shanghai branches, standardised the form internationally, though the original Nanxiang house at Yu Garden in Shanghai remains a reference point.
Where to try
Shanghai: Jia Jia Tang Bao (workhorse), Din Tai Fung (the Taiwanese international chain — Shanghai branches), Nanxiang Mantou Dian (Yu Garden — touristy but original lineage).
Dietary notes
Pork, wheat, soy.
Regional variants
The Nanxiang (Shanghai) original uses pork with a delicate wrapper closed with 18 pleats. The Wuxi style runs sweeter and larger. Din Tai Fung — the Taiwan chain — offers pork with seasonal crab roe. Shanghai crab-roe xiaolongbao (xie fen) appears in autumn. Shape and size vary between houses; what defines them is the soup-inside-the-dumpling technique rather than any single silhouette.
Where the name comes from
小笼包 translates as "small basket bun" — a reference to the small bamboo steamer (xiao long) they're cooked in rather than the dumpling itself. The form originated in Nanxiang, Jiading County — then a market town outside Shanghai — in the 1870s under a shopkeeper named Huang Mingxian, who is credited with adapting existing stuffed-bun traditions into the soup-filled variant now served across the Jiangnan region.
Pairings
Black rice vinegar with finely shredded fresh ginger is the standard dipping condiment — the acidity cuts the pork fat. A warm clear broth or a Chinese lager sits alongside comfortably. Longjing tea is a common non-alcoholic pairing. At Din Tai Fung the standard order runs dumplings first — pork then crab — followed by a bowl of noodle soup and a mixed dessert plate of red-bean and taro items.
Where to learn to cook it
Shanghai cooking schools — Cook in Shanghai among them — run half-day classes that teach the pleating and the aspic. Din Tai Fung runs academy sessions in Taipei for staff and occasional visitors. YouTube channels demonstrate the 18-pleat pattern frame by frame. The technical crux is the aspic — chilled pork-skin gelatin folded into the filling so that steaming melts it into soup inside the wrapper without splitting the dough.
Common misconceptions
Xiaolongbao are not dim sum in the Cantonese sense — they are a Shanghai-region specialty from the Jiangnan tradition rather than a Guangdong one. The "soup" inside is not poured in — it is chilled pork stock set into aspic and folded into the filling, which liquefies when steamed. Do not stab them with chopsticks — bite or pierce a small hole in the side first, drink the broth, then eat the wrapper and pork.
Cities to try Xiaolongbao (Soup Dumplings)
Other east dishes
- Beggar's Chicken叫花鸡
A whole chicken stuffed with aromatics, wrapped in lotus leaves and clay, then slow-baked until the meat steams in its own juices.
- Drunken Chicken醉鸡
Chicken steamed and marinated in Shaoxing rice wine, served chilled. A Shanghai banquet starter.
- Eight-Treasure Rice八宝饭
A steamed dome of glutinous rice layered with red bean paste and decorated with eight types of preserved fruits and nuts.
- Hairy Crab大闸蟹
Yangcheng Lake mitten crab — the autumn delicacy of the Yangtze Delta. Eaten steamed with vinegar dip.
More Jiangnan dishes
- Drunken Chicken醉鸡
Chicken steamed and marinated in Shaoxing rice wine, served chilled. A Shanghai banquet starter.
- Hairy Crab大闸蟹
Yangcheng Lake mitten crab — the autumn delicacy of the Yangtze Delta. Eaten steamed with vinegar dip.
- Red-Cooked Pork红烧肉
Pork belly slow-braised in soy sauce, sugar, Shaoxing wine and spices until glossy and tender.
- Scallion Oil Noodles葱油拌面
Shanghai cult noodle: 5 ingredients (noodles, scallion, oil, soy, sugar), zero waste. The simplest excellent noodle.
- Sheng Jian Bao (Pan-Fried Pork Buns)生煎包
Shanghai pan-fried pork buns with a crispy bottom, soft fluffy top and juicy filling.
- Yangzhou Fried Rice扬州炒饭
The original Yangzhou fried rice — ham, prawns, peas, scrambled egg, scallion, in a light non-greasy stir-fry.