Xinjiang · rice
Polo Pilaf
手抓饭 · Shǒuzhuā Fàn
Uyghur festive rice cooked with lamb, carrot, onion and raisins in a kazan — eaten communally by hand.
Polo (Uyghur) or shǒuzhuā fàn (Mandarin, 'hand-grabbed rice') is the celebratory pilaf of Xinjiang's Uyghur and Uzbek communities. Lamb fat is rendered in a large cast-iron kazan, then onions are fried until golden, followed by julienned yellow carrots, lamb pieces (bone-in) and soaked long-grain rice, then water in a measured ratio. Cumin and sometimes chickpeas, raisins and dried barberries are layered in during cooking. The kazan is sealed and the rice steams until every grain is separate and has absorbed the lamb-fat-infused stock. At a traditional feast, diners wash their right hands and eat directly from a communal platter. The carrots and lamb are mounded on top of the rice at serving. Regional Uyghur variations add garlic heads, eggs or quail eggs cooked in the rice.
Where to try
Xinjiang: Uyghur restaurants in Urumqi's Grand Bazaar area and in Kashgar's Old City. Polo is served from large communal kazans at lunchtime — most is sold out by early afternoon.
Dietary notes
Lamb, rice, carrot, raisins. Halal. Gluten-free. Contains lamb fat; not suitable for vegetarians.
Cities to try Polo Pilaf
Other northwest dishes
- Biangbiang Noodlesbiáng biáng 面
Wide, hand-pulled, belt-shaped Shaanxi noodles. The 'biang' character is the most complex in the Chinese language.
- Big Plate Chicken大盘鸡
A large-portioned Xinjiang braised chicken dish with potatoes, peppers and thick hand-pulled belt noodles.
- Hand-Grasped Lamb手抓羊肉
Large bone-in lamb pieces boiled in spiced water and eaten by hand — a communal dish of Inner Mongolia and the northwest.
- Laghman (Hand-Pulled Noodles with Lamb)拉条子
Uyghur hand-pulled wheat noodles with a lamb-and-vegetable sauce of tomato, pepper and onion.