Xinjiang · rice
Polo Pilaf
手抓饭 · Shǒuzhuā Fàn
Uyghur festive rice cooked with lamb, carrot, onion and raisins in a kazan — eaten communally by hand.
Polo (in Uyghur) or shǒuzhuā fàn (Mandarin, 'hand-grabbed rice') is the ceremonial pilaf of Xinjiang's Uyghur, Uzbek and Kazakh communities — the dish served at weddings, funerals, Eid gatherings and any occasion requiring a meal that signals seriousness and generosity. The Silk Road pilaf tradition stretches from Iran to western China; Xinjiang's polo is its eastern variant.
The cooking vessel is a large cast-iron or copper kazan — a round-bottomed wok set over a high flame or open fire. Lamb tail fat is rendered first; the fat is the base flavour of the dish. Once the fat is clear, sliced onion goes in until golden, then julienned yellow carrot (the large, slightly sweet Central Asian variety, not small European-style carrots), and bone-in lamb pieces cut from the ribs, shoulder or neck. After the lamb has browned on the outside, soaked long-grain rice — rinsed until the water runs clear — is added in an even layer and covered with measured water. The pot is sealed and left to steam over reducing heat until the rice has absorbed all the liquid and the base has formed a light crust.
At serving the kazan is inverted onto a large platter: the rice at the base, the carrots and lamb mounded on top. Raisins, chickpeas, dried barberries and whole garlic heads are common additions during cooking. Some family versions add quail eggs buried in the rice to cook alongside.
At a traditional feast, diners eat from the communal platter with the right hand. In restaurants, individual bowls are standard. The dish is prepared in large batches for the midday meal and is typically sold out by early afternoon — do not arrive after 13:00 expecting polo.
Where to try
Xinjiang: Uyghur restaurants in Urumqi's Grand Bazaar area and in Kashgar's Old City. Polo is served from large communal kazans at lunchtime — most is sold out by early afternoon.
Dietary notes
Lamb, rice, carrot, raisins. Halal. Gluten-free. Contains lamb fat; not suitable for vegetarians.
Cities to try Polo Pilaf
Other northwest dishes
- Biangbiang Noodlesbiáng biáng 面
Wide, hand-pulled, belt-shaped Shaanxi noodles. The 'biang' character is the most complex in the Chinese language.
- Big Plate Chicken大盘鸡
A large-portioned Xinjiang braised chicken dish with potatoes, peppers and thick hand-pulled belt noodles.
- Hand-Grasped Lamb手抓羊肉
Large bone-in lamb pieces boiled in spiced water and eaten by hand — a communal dish of Inner Mongolia and the northwest.
- Laghman (Hand-Pulled Noodles with Lamb)拉条子
Uyghur hand-pulled wheat noodles with a lamb-and-vegetable sauce of tomato, pepper and onion.
More Xinjiang dishes
- Big Plate Chicken大盘鸡
A large-portioned Xinjiang braised chicken dish with potatoes, peppers and thick hand-pulled belt noodles.
- Lagman Pulled Noodles拉条子
Thick hand-pulled wheat noodles served with a stew of lamb, peppers, tomatoes and cumin — a Central Asian staple.
- Lamb Skewers羊肉串
Charcoal-grilled lamb skewers seasoned with cumin, chilli flakes and salt — a ubiquitous street food of Xinjiang origin.
- Naan Bread馕
The flatbread of Xinjiang — baked in a clay tandoor, stamped with patterns and eaten at every meal.
- Samsa烤包子
Uyghur baked lamb-and-onion pastry pies cooked in a clay tandoor oven — hot, flaky and cumin-scented.