CITY · XINJIANG
Altay
阿勒泰 · Ālètài
Overview
Remote city in far northern Xinjiang at the base of the Altai Mountains, bordering Russia, Kazakhstan and Mongolia. Kanas Lake, Hemu village and skiing at Keketuohai are the main draws; this is China's coldest winter destination.
Altay (Aletai) is the administrative capital of Altay Prefecture in the far north of Xinjiang, positioned at the base of the Altai Mountains where China meets Russia, Kazakhstan and Mongolia at a brief trijunction. The city functions primarily as a logistics base for visitors to the Kanas Lake National Scenic Area, roughly 160 km north, which is the main reason most visitors come to the region.
Kanas Lake is a glacially formed lake in a forested mountain valley at 1,374 m elevation — distinctive in Xinjiang for its sub-alpine scenery, birch and larch forests, and Tuva minority villages (Hemu and Baihaba) at its northern end. In autumn the forest turns yellow and orange against the blue-green lake, producing photographs that circulate widely in Chinese travel media. In winter, the area receives substantial snowfall and temperatures drop to -30°C or below; the village of Hemu, only accessible by snowcat or on foot in deep winter, has become a destination for visitors seeking extreme cold-weather experiences.
The Keketuohai (Koktokay) scenic area east of Altay city offers a different landscape — a dramatic granite canyon cut by the Irtysh River through mineral-rich mountains that supplied the Soviet Union with strategic metals during the Cold War. A winter ski resort at Keketuohai has developed into one of Xinjiang's better-known ski destinations.
Altay is genuinely cold: winter temperatures below -30°C are regular, and the summer visiting season for Kanas is June–September. The Tuva people of the Kanas area are a small Siberian-Turkic minority with a semi-nomadic herding tradition and their own distinctive wooden architecture.
Cultural & access notes
The Tuva villages of Hemu and Baihaba are genuine communities, not tourist reconstructions. The Tuva people have Siberian-Turkic roots and are distinct from the Kazakh majority of Altay Prefecture. Treat these villages as working communities — obtain permission before photographing inside homes.
What to see
- Kanas Lake National Scenic Area — alpine lake and forest, 160 km north
- Hemu Tuva village — traditional wooden architecture in sub-alpine valley
- Baihaba village — the northernmost village in China, on the Kazakh border
- Kanas Observation Deck — view over the lake from above
- Keketuohai (Koktokay) Canyon — granite gorge with Soviet mining history, east of Altay
- Keketuohai Ski Resort — winter skiing in the Irtysh canyon area
- Altay city Kazakh culture museums
- Irtysh River valley viewpoints
What to eat
- Kazakh slow-roasted lamb (whole-animal roast for celebrations)
- Shashlik — grilled skewers at market stalls
- Horsemeat sausage (kazy) — a Kazakh cold-weather staple
- Thick noodle soup with lamb and mountain vegetables
- Wild berry preserves and pine nut products from local markets
- Fresh stream fish from Kanas Lake area in summer
Getting there
Altay Airport (AAT) has flights from Urumqi (approximately 1 hour [VERIFY: current schedule and frequency — May 2026]). By road from Urumqi: approximately 9–10 hours. From Altay to Kanas Lake: approximately 3–4 hours by road, or shuttle buses in peak season [VERIFY: current access arrangements — May 2026]. Winter road access to Hemu and Baihaba may require snowcat transport when roads close.
Getting around
Hired vehicles or organised tours for the Kanas area. Taxis within Altay city. The Kanas scenic area operates its own internal shuttle system in peak summer season.
Where to stay
Mid-range hotels in Altay city. Guesthouses in Kanas village, Hemu village and Baihaba — these book out months in advance for the peak autumn colour weeks (late September–mid-October). Yurt camps operate in summer in the Kanas area.
We list neighbourhoods, not specific hotels — we don't endorse hotels.
When to go
Late June–August for accessible hiking and lake scenery. September–early October for autumn colour (the most popular period — book well in advance). January–February for winter snow experience at Hemu. Spring (April–May) sees the area coming back to life but roads to the northern villages may still be impassable.
Budget guide (CNY per day)
| Backpacker | ¥280 |
| Mid-range | ¥600 |
| Comfortable | ¥1500 |
Safety notes
Winter temperatures at Kanas and Hemu reach -40°C — suitable cold-weather gear is essential and not optional. The northern border area (Baihaba) requires a border zone permit (biānjìng tōngxíngzhèng) — arrange this in advance. Security checks apply throughout Xinjiang. Some areas within the Kanas scenic area may have additional access restrictions.
Food of Northwestern China
- Biangbiang Noodlesbiáng biáng 面
Wide, hand-pulled, belt-shaped Shaanxi noodles. The 'biang' character is the most complex in the Chinese language.
- Big Plate Chicken大盘鸡
A large-portioned Xinjiang braised chicken dish with potatoes, peppers and thick hand-pulled belt noodles.
- Hand-Grasped Lamb手抓羊肉
Large bone-in lamb pieces boiled in spiced water and eaten by hand — a communal dish of Inner Mongolia and the northwest.
- Laghman (Hand-Pulled Noodles with Lamb)拉条子
Uyghur hand-pulled wheat noodles with a lamb-and-vegetable sauce of tomato, pepper and onion.
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