Hangzhou · Neighbourhood ·
West Lake North (Beishan)
北山 · Wooded hillside above the lake's northern shore — Buddhist temples, tea pavilions, Republican-era villas in among the camphor trees, and the most atmospheric of the lake's residential streets.
About this neighbourhood
Beishan Road runs along the northern shore of West Lake from the Bai Causeway terminus to the foot of Lingyin Mountain. In the late Qing and early Republican periods this was a desirable summer-residence quarter for Shanghai businessmen, Chinese diplomats, and a small foreign community. Many of the surviving villas have been restored as museums, guesthouses, or restaurants.
Yue Fei Mausoleum, halfway along the road, commemorates the Southern Song general executed in 1142 on false treason charges. The kneeling iron statues of Qin Hui and his wife — the officials who orchestrated the conspiracy — are traditionally spat upon by visiting Chinese; the mausoleum staff routinely clean the statues. The site is a working historical-memory complex.
Lingyin Temple, accessible by foot or bus from the western end of the road, is one of the largest and most active Buddhist temples in southeastern China. The Feilai Feng (Flying Peak) limestone outcrop in the temple grounds is carved with hundreds of Buddhist sculptures dating from the 10th century. The pilgrim canteen serves vegetarian set meals; the temple shop sells incense at unusually moderate prices.
Baochu Pagoda, visible on the ridge above Beishan Road, is the photographic counterpart to Leifeng Pagoda on the southern shore. The walking ascent takes about 20 minutes from the lakefront and offers a panoramic perspective on West Lake's full extent.
What to see
Yue Fei Mausoleum, Lingyin Temple complex (a 30-minute walk north), Beishan Road's restored consular and merchant villas, Baochu Pagoda above the trees on Baoshi Hill.
What to eat
Vegetarian set lunches at Lingyin Temple's pilgrim canteen; tea and sweets at Solitary Hill teahouses; small restaurants along Baochu Road serving Hangzhou home cooking — beggar's chicken, dongpo pork, fish-head tofu soup.
Transit
Buses 7, 27, 81, 850 along Beishan Road. Walking the lake path is the standard approach. No metro stop directly on this stretch.
Where to stay
Heritage boutique hotels in restored villas: An Lan Bistro, the West Lake State Guest House, Hyatt Regency near the eastern junction. Mid-range guesthouses on the back streets above Beishan Road.
Hazards & notes
Steep climbs up to Baochu Pagoda and Geling Hill — wet weather makes the stone steps slippery. Lingyin Temple has a separate entry queue from the surrounding park; combined ticket recommended.