Houhai & Shichahai

Shichahai, meaning 'ten temple lakes', is a group of three connected lakes — Qianhai (Front Lake), Houhai (Rear Lake), and Xihai (West Lake) — that have been part of Beijing's urban fabric since at least the Yuan dynasty, when the route from the Grand Canal entered the city near this point. The area was an imperial hunting and recreation ground before gradually acquiring a mix of noble mansions, temples, and markets through the Ming and Qing periods.

Today the lakeside paths form one of Beijing's most consistently pleasant walks. Willow trees trail into the water; elderly residents play chess on stone tables; families cycle along the path; and a line of bars and restaurants faces the water from the south shore of Houhai. The Yinding (Silver Ingot) Bridge, which separates Houhai from Qianhai, is a useful landmark and a popular photography spot with views towards the Drum Tower.

The surrounding lanes contain a density of well-preserved courtyard residences, many of which have been converted to boutique hotels, restaurants, or private homes for Beijing's professional class. The former residence of Soong Ching-ling — the second wife of Sun Yat-sen, and a prominent figure in the People's Republic until her death in 1981 — is preserved as a museum on the north shore of Houhai.

Ice skating on the frozen lakes in January and February draws large crowds. The rink on Shichahai is one of Beijing's oldest; a more commercial operation runs on Houhai with hired skates available. In summer, paddle boats and kayaks are available for hire on Qianhai.