Travelling with kids

Why China works for families

China's practical infrastructure makes family travel more manageable than the perceived difficulty might suggest. High-speed rail has wide seats, dining carriages, and minimal security theatre. Metro systems in tier-1 cities are clean and air-conditioned. Hotels are accustomed to families. The Chinese population's general warmth toward children — strangers frequently want to interact with foreign children, which can be charming or overwhelming depending on temperament — means families are received well almost everywhere.

The genuine challenges are the language barrier (manageable with apps), the firewall (manageable with a VPN), and the occasional squat toilet (manageable with patience).

Documents

Every child requires their own passport valid for the duration of the trip. Children need the same visa or visa-free entitlement as adults. For visa-on-arrival or visa-free entry, children's travel documents are processed individually at immigration.

For families where only one parent is travelling: Chinese immigration authorities increasingly check that single parents travelling with children have consent documentation from the absent parent. A notarised letter stating that the absent parent consents to the child travelling internationally is worth carrying — it is rarely checked strictly, but the cases where it matters are not worth the argument.

Transport

High-speed rail is the most family-comfortable long-distance option in China. Seats are wide, carriages are walkable, toilets are accessible, and a food trolley circulates. Book second class — the seat pitch is comfortable and far cheaper than first class. For overnight journeys of 6+ hours, sleeper berths in the hard-sleeper (六人包厢) or soft-sleeper (四人包厢) class are manageable with children who are past the crawling stage.

Metro: Most tier-1 city metro systems have lifts at all stations — a significant practical advantage with a buggy or stroller. The lifts are consistent in Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. Tier-2 city systems are less consistent; check on arrival. Rush-hour metros are not stroller-friendly by simple volume.

Taxis and DiDi: Child seats are not standard and drivers do not carry them. Bring a portable folding car seat if you need one. Booster seats for older children are not a realistic expectation.

Strollers: Manageable in cities but a challenge on older cobbled areas (Pingyao, some hutong sections, Lijiang old town). A lightweight folding pram handles most situations; avoid full-size travel systems.

Food

Chinese restaurant food is more accommodating than it appears. The baseline: steamed rice, hand-pulled noodles (request bù là, no chilli), dumplings (jiǎozi), congee (rice porridge), steamed eggs, and bao buns are universal and reliably kid-acceptable. The spice problem is regional:

• Sichuan, Hunan, Chongqing: Default to significant heat. Always specify bù là (不辣, not spicy). Even so, some dishes have residual chilli oil that is more than mild.
• Northern/Shandong/Dongbei: Milder baseline. Noodles, dumplings, and braised meats are generally not spicy.
• Cantonese/Shanghai: Light seasoning, minimal chilli; good for cautious eaters.

McDonalds, KFC, Pizza Hut, and Häagen-Dazs are genuinely everywhere in tier-1 and tier-2 cities — the backup is reliable if a meal has gone wrong. Fresh fruit is excellent throughout: winter mandarins and oranges, spring strawberries and cherries, summer lychees and mango, autumn persimmons and pears.

Sights

Chinese heritage sites are physically demanding — large flat plains of stone (Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City), long wall sections, stair-heavy temple complexes. What works with children:

• Forbidden City: Pre-book early timed entry. The southern axis (Meridian Gate to Imperial Garden) is manageable for 6+. The Imperial Garden at the north end is a good rest point.
• Great Wall Mutianyu: Cable car up, toboggan down — specifically recommended as family-friendly.
• Terracotta Army: Sheltered, visually dramatic, works from age 5+.
• Chengdu Panda Base: Works from toddler age. Arrive early for active pandas.
• Hong Kong Ocean Park and Disneyland: Purpose-built for families.
• Shanghai Disneyland: Larger and more complete than Hong Kong Disneyland.
• Beijing Universal Studios: Opened 2021; more recent attractions.

What to avoid with young children: multi-day high-altitude trekking (Tibet, Jiuzhaigou trail at 3,500m+), Wild Wall unrestored sections, cave and temple complexes requiring sustained walking with no shelter.

Practicalities

Most mid-range and above hotels accommodate two adults plus one child under 12 in a standard double room without additional charge. Extra beds are available on request for older children. International-brand hotels in tier-1 cities are more flexible on cot/crib requests.

Baby formula, nappies (diapers), and basic infant supplies are available in any large supermarket (Carrefour, Walmart, RT-Mart, Hema). Foreign brands (Aptamil, Cow & Gate, Nestlé) are available at international supermarkets and import stores. Brand familiarity will be partial; bring a starter supply of anything specific.

Squat toilets remain common in older buildings, roadside stops, and some public parks. Major airports, international hotels, and modern shopping malls have Western-style facilities. A folding travel potty-seat helps in unpredictable situations.

Health

All routine vaccinations should be current before travel. Hepatitis A and B vaccination is recommended for children travelling to rural or less-developed areas. Altitude is a genuine concern in Tibet, Jiuzhaigou, and some Yunnan destinations — children acclimatise more slowly than adults sometimes suggest; build in rest days.

Air quality tracking matters for children's respiratory health. Use IQAir or similar to check the AQI before outdoor activities; on days above 150 AQI, outdoor play should be limited and N95 masks used. Pack children's face masks that fit — adult N95s don't seal correctly on small faces. Sunscreen is important at altitude and in southern China's strong UV; reapply frequently.